Re-Entry

My goodness, how the time has flown!  I wanted to save this last blog post as a reflection, final thoughts, and summation of my experience in Europe.  I studied away during J term two years ago at Holden Village (an old mining town way up in the cascades), and I know that there are some short term impacts and long term impacts that take some time to come emerge following re entry into regular life.  Basically, I can offer my immediate reflections now, but ask me a year from now how this trip has changed the way that I think, or my goals, and I will be able to give you a more comprehensive answer. For now, here we go.  

The major impacts of this trip are 1) I am inspired to continue to play, listen to, and learn about music and its history after seeing first hand so many spectacular concerts and historic places. 2) I am inspired to learn more about the structure of the European countries and how their political, economical, and social models function, 3) I am inspired to, at a minimum, become bi-lingual.

If I had to boil down the trip even further to one lesson or takeaway, I would say that this trip provided me with a monumental experience for comparison.  As I mentioned in my first blog posts, even though the societies of America and Germany Austria, and the Czech Republic are all developed and modern, this was the first experience for me to notice all of the minute and not so minute differences between my life growing up, and my life for the last month.  College has been a time for me to learn to think critically about everything, and spending a month in Europe gave me ample time to compare all of my experiences in America to a different culture and society.  Everything from the difference in the light switches (they are squares, see below) to the incredible transit system (also below), to the absence of plastic zip lock bags, and the way that almost all the cars are diesel, are not trucks but actually cars, and have manual transmissions.  Basically, every moment was engaging and provided something to think about, and something to reflect upon.

Experiential learning, and immersion are the best way to learn, and I encountered that firsthand.  There is not substitute for the feeling of complete incompetence when all you want is some food, but you can read nothing on the menu, and speak little more than "please" and "thank you" and the numbers 1-20.  There is no substitute to seeing and visiting a castle that has housed royalty, seen battles, and withstood thousands of years of time.  This trip has truly been life changing, and I cant wait to continue learning and exploring the world.  This was the end of our trip, but this the event that has inspired my curiosity to learn new languages, and explore the world (and check out those free masters programs in Germany).  Ready or not, here I come!

Looking Forward

When I got back to Seattle, walked out of the airport and looked around, I realized that nothing was going to be the same. This trip has not only been the trip of a lifetime but it has also changed that way I look at my life and my surroundings. Being in the "PLU Bubble" it has been hard for me recently to push my mindset outside of Tacoma and Parkland. Traveling to Europe, especially Vienna, really opened my mind up to new possibilities. I not only have a new appreciation for the music and culture around me but also for my dreams and passions. There is so much out there that  I have not discovered and that honestly, blows my mind. It is crazy to think that there is the same quality of music that we saw in a month literally happening all the time. There isn't a concert that the Berlin or Vienna Phil play that isn't incredible. There is so much to listen to! And countless opportunities to dive in to the history of the music and backgrounds of composers and artists and this past month we barely scratched the surface. I will never forget the experiences on this trip, the countless inside jokes with friend, moments in music that took my breath away or the awe of standing at the top of a tower and overlooking an entire city. This trip has definitely motivated me to dive in to my passions and music and that is something I will not take for granted.

Ice Skating in Vienna

Our final days in Vienna were very relaxing and fun! We went to Musikhaus Doblinger and I bought the score to my favorite symphony, Dvorak Symphony No. 9 From the New World! 

Then we went to a cafe (per recommendation by Sarah Martin) and got chocolate magic, which was by far the most magical piece of cake I have ever had in my life! 

Then we went ice skating! I am so glad that I made such wonderful friends on this trip! It was an amazing experience to share this trip with my friends! When we were ice skating there was a moment when I just stopped and looked around me at the buildings and people and just sighed because right then, everything was perfect. I felt like I was in a movie! I wouldn't trade that feeling for anything in the world! 

Ice Skating in Wien

Before leaving for this trip, we tossed around the idea of traveling to Budapest on the final day. When that day finally came, the majority of us decided on having a relaxing day in Wien instead of spending 5 extra hours of travel the day before our 11-12 hour flight home. To start the day off right, we turned off the alarms and slept in. After a breakfast at the hostel we spent 2 hours at the Central Café. In Europe, it's very traditional to spend multiple hours at a Café and read multi newspapers, or come with a few friends and have in depth discussions about each other's lives. We used this time to reflect on the entire trip. We also discussed how life is going to be different from here on out. For me personally, I have been inspired to live a greener lifestyle that is more sustainable. Europe has taught me that man kind has the ability to take care of the planet and make it a better place for generations to come.

To further our amazing day, a large group of us went ice skating. This was no ordinary ice skating rink however. There were three big ovals that were connected by a series of trails. This was my first time going ice skating and oh my goodness it was fantastic. Annalise thankfully stuck by me in the beginning while I was trying to figure it all out because she has had a lot of past experience with ice skating. Claire and I were cracking up because how much we were struggling but we both got the hang of it! It was fun to skate up behind members of the group and take action photos of them. We were all so encouraging to each other and I honestly can't imagine having a better time. We could've saw Budapest but we ended up having the most fun and relaxing day of the entire trip, and so I'm confident that we made the right choice. It was so nice to cherish all of these amazing friendships that have been truly cemented over this past month. I cannot stress how incredible this trip has been and how I am forever changed in a positive way. I'm very thankful that I was able to share this experience with my friends.

Praha

This was the city I was looking forward to the most. This is where Smetena and Dvorak lived and wrote many of their pieces. The most famous one of course is The Moldau by Smetena. What I Iove is that you heard this piece everywhere in the city. It was a humbling feeling hearing the piece where it was conposed.

Prague cherishes its history which is a lot different from the United States. Granted most buildings in Prague are from the 1500's and America isn't even that old. All the streets are cobblestone and there are giant stone towers that overlook the city. St. Charles stretches over the Moldau and is a massive 600 meters long. It is bordered with statues of saints that date back to the 18th century even though the actually bridge was built in the 15th century. From the bridge you can see Old Town Square which is home to the famous Astronomical Clock. To the other side you can see the famous castle which is the largest castle still in use today. Atop the castle is the St. Vitus Cathedral which was by far the most astounding thing I've seen on the trip thus far. We got there in the morning so the light came pouring in through the stained glass. I have visited a few cathedrals but none have ever had stained glass as vivid as this.

Another beautiful moment in Prague was all of the snowfall we received. Walking on St. Charles bridge while looking at all of the snow roof tops felt like a dream. So many huge historical moments have happened here and it was a true blessing to be able to see it in person.

Coming Home

I have to say, it was a pretty hilarious situation coming back. On the way in to Frankfurt, at the start of the trip, going through customs took minutes. All you had to do was go up to the agent, give them your passport, and tell them where you were going. That's it! Admittance to Germany. Coming back, wow that was that fun. First, the passport check was "over-capacity". Now, I had never flown outside of the U.S. before, so I really had no idea what to expect from the passport check area. Imagine my surprise when we exited the hallway (LIKE HALF AN HOUR LATER) to a sea of frustrated travelers, all funneling into the declaration area between two pieces of nylon webbing. A perfect monument to american efficiency. After entering the gauntlet, we snaked through the sweaty line for what seemed like an eternity. At the end of the line, you wait until a computer station is available to declare your "articles" and take your mugshot or whatever. After this, you get herded yet again to some other destination. I actually didn't get to experience this because I  got "randomly selected" to go through additional screening! Oh boy!

Coming home was a sharp reminder of what I'll be missing from this trip. The undesirable "feel" that everything just sort of fits together doesn't exist back over here, really. We don't have the incredibly efficient rail systems, that make sense even if you don't read the language. Nor do we have the awesome waiters that leave you to your meal and let you enjoy it, rather than badger you with "service" every five minutes, then shove you out the door as soon as you finish your meal. We don't even have rotary trumpets for God's sake!

The thing that I'll miss the most, however, will be all the fun I had exploring these countries with my friends. It's an experience I'll never forget in my lifetime. Thank you all for such an amazing trip.

Art History Museum

The Art History Museum houses some extremely old artifacts, some from nearly five thousand years ago. Like most museums around this area, it's original purpose was to house art pieces from the Habsburg family. It has many outstanding original paintings, as well as artifacts from ancient Egyptian, Grecian, and other cultures.

The amount of precious materials in the artifact and sculpture sections is incredible. I can't even imagine the price for just the raw material! I've never seen so many tools and navigation instruments build out of solid gold, or sculptures out of silver. There was one hall just of ivory sculptures!

"The inscription on this oliphant mentions Count Albrecht III of Habsburg, who in 1199 presented the horn filled with relics to the Abbey of Muri in Switzerland. It remains unclear whether the inscribed text dates from the Middle Ages or was added around 1700, when the horn was presented to Emperor Leopold I as a sign of the object's original connection with his ancestor"

A "Prayer-Nut", from around 1500. The "nut" is made out of box wood, and is incredibly small, probably around 2-2 1/2 inches in diameter. Very intricately carved

Map with compass

Gold navigation instruments

Final Thoughts

Before this trip, I had never left the North American continent, so I was both nervous and excited when we boarded our airplane just a little over 3 ½ weeks ago. Perhaps I had expected more of a culture shock, which there was in a few small ways: like how you could not order tap water in restaurants, instead you had to ask for either still or sparkling mineral water that came in a fancy glass bottle (which in my opinion was nasty and overpriced, but perhaps I just have a different palette); or how most bathrooms were not free and you were asked to pay either a machine or an attendant for their use; or even how there were hardly any grocery markets for buying fresh produce, and you had to go out of your way to find them in the big cities if you wanted something simple, like a banana. The biggest culture shock however was not being able to speak the languages of the countries. I felt very powerless not being able to ask basic questions, or incredibly senseless trying to order food using a string of broken German words I’d picked up from other students in the group. But as far as basic necessities, living space, transportation, and food, I found everything really easy to adapt to and I would have liked to stay there longer. Being home now and not being able to wake up everyday with the anticipation of hopping on a subway or bus to go exploring makes everyday life seem so boring. In the end, I am just so thankful for the opportunity I had to be able to go to other countries and become more aware of the art, culture and history of each one. I’m also incredibly grateful for the other students of this trip that I had the immense privilege of getting to know and sharing this amazing experience with. GO PLU MUSIC CAPITALS OF THE WORLD 2016!!

Auf wiedersehen!

I'm home now and, as you can tell, have caught up on my blog posts. It was extremely difficult while on the trip to peel myself away from the opportunities presented in each city and sit down to write. I wanted to use up every minute exploring the sites and absorbing the atmosphere. That first night in Leipzig seems like a year away now and I can hardly believe we packed so many adventures into a mere 26 days. Four plane trips, four countries, eight cities, nine train rides, 18 performances, and 215 miles walked makes for an exhausting, busy, fulfilling, and inspiring trip. Hearing Vienna horns and seeing Swan Lake were particularly moving for me as a hornist and former ballerina. Throughout the trip I had chance encounters with the principal oboe of the Gewandhaus Orchestra, the personnel manager of the New York Met, a Tonkunstler Orchestra cellist, and a Camerata Salzburg violinist. It was incredible the insights I gained from these people as well as from our tour guides. This trip was certainly a memorable one and I truly hope to find myself back in these cities in the future.

Final Impressions

I've spent a month traveling around central Europe listening to some of the best musicians and ensembles in the world, and seeing the sights of music history first-hand. The moments were my favorite -- the moments that made me stop and stare, or stop and listen. As I mentioned before, I think these moments are some of the more special you can have. Seeing Bach' church, witnessing a beautiflly danced Swan Lake, having Strauss waltzes stuck in my head while walking down the banks of the Danube, and seeing the brushstrokes of Rembrant's self portraits -- these are moments I will long remember.
I don't think that the full weight and reality of what I have just finished doing has settled in yet. I was able to fill in so many gaps in my understanding of music history's timeline, and I experienced new levels of musicianship to which I now aspire to achieve. Every time I think back to one of the cities I visited, I remember something new that had an impact on me, and I imagine that will keep happening for a long time. To say that this trip didn't change my perspectives on music and culture would be a flat out lie, but I believe that the full impact of that change will continue to unfold as I continue my path in music education, and as a person.
Auf Wiedersehen, Europe. Thank you for making me a better person, and for sharing your music.

Prague

Prague was by far the most beautiful city on our trip. Everywhere you looked there were statues, archways, steeples, and stone. To me, this city felt the oldest and most foreign of those we visited. We did not really venture out of Old Town, and I would have liked to see what the more urban areas were like. What I did see, however, was almost like a fairytale. 

Prague Castle from St. Charles Bridge

Palace of the President

St. Vitus Cathedral

City overlook from Prague Palace

Peering Down

I was lucky to have been able to, in each town I visited (with the exception of Berlin and Wittenburg) to hike, take the stairs, or ride an elevator to a point where I could look down on the whole town. I'd like to share some of the pictures from these vantage points. I love the architecture and these cities!

Vienna from St. Stephan's Cathedral south tower

Budapest

Leipzig

Salzburg from the monastery

Behind the castle in Salzburg -- toward the Alps

Prague from Prague castle

Let them eat cake!

While in Salzburg, we were fortunate enough to be there for Mozart's birthday. At six o'clock that evening, a crowd gathered outside Mozart's birth house while a brass quintet played from inside and a huge cake was brought out in celebration of the day. It was rather cut-throat to get up to the front table for a piece of cake, but I persevered and eventually was awarded slice. It turned out there was more cake than crowd, so I'm not quite sure why everyone was so pushy. It was a chocolate cake with fondant on top picturing Mozart's profile, signature, and some music notes. I was handed the slice with the ending "g" of Wolfgang in his signature. While it was not so fun to be shoved around in a crowd, knowing I was going to hear the Vienna Philharmonic perform Mozart's Haffner Symphony that same evening more than made up for it.

A train of thought...on trains.

As I was on my way to Budapest on Tuesday, I couldn't help but think how freakin' cool it is that I could do a day trip to an entirely different country on the Eurail system.
I grew up in Juneau, AK -- a place that has no roads leading out of town. To get to another town you literally have to take a very long ferry ride or buy an airline ticket -- and this is just to get to the next town, let alone a different country or a new culture. Even after living in the I-5 corridor for a few years now, I am occasionally taken aback by the thought that I could drive to Florida if I wanted. But even in the USA, everything is spread out geographically, and you would have to travel a long way to get somewhere that feels totally different. In Europe that's not the case; I can take a 2.5 hour train ride and be in another country, in another culture, a different economy, a different language, and a different history. It is a very cool feeling to have such a different world so easily accessible, and I will miss the opportunity to explore so freely and easily these different countries. I traveled to four different countries and seven very different towns all within four weeks, and I can't get over how cool that is.

My ticket to explore.

Wittenburg

As a Lutheran, I could not pass up the opportunity to make a day trip to Wittenberg. Here is where Martin Luther lived and where he posted his 95 Theses on the Power and Efficacy of Indulgences. We were able to visit many sites of importance in Luther's life. On our walk through town, we, by chance, passed by the Luther Oak. In the 1500s the site was used to burn the clothes of plague victims. Luther, however, used it in 1520 to burn his letter of warning of excommunication from Pope Leo X.

Our next stop was at Corpus Christi Chapel. Here, in 1518, is where Luther appealed to the Pope to retract his accusation of heresy against Luther.

Adjacent to the chapel is the Church of St. Mary. This was Luther's home church--he was married here, preached here, and his children were baptized here. It was very special to walk the aisles of this church and imagine Luther giving a sermon from the pulpit. I was surprised by how large the alter area was and how much art was displayed on the walls.

From St. Mary's, we made our way to All Saint's Church. Unfortunately, the church was under construction so we could not go inside. We were, however, able to view what I was most looking forward to seeing: the door where Luther nailed his 95 Theses in 1517. I was moved to see the place where the Reformation began. I couldn't help but stare in awe of the bronze doors which, since 1858, have displayed the Theses. How incredible that the church where one man protested 500 years ago is now part of a worldwide denomination based on those ideals.

The Vienna Philharmonic

While in Salzburg I got to hear the best ensemble playing I've ever heard. The Vienna Philharmonic played together with such precision and technical mastery that it was hard to even tell they were trying at all. Watching them play together was like watching a ballerina dance flawlessly (another thing I got to witness during this trip!) -- there was a simple elegance to their ensemble sound that was nothing short of extraordinary. I honestly don't believe that any conductor needed to be in front of them; they breathed together, watched each other, moved together, made phrasing together, and instantaneously made musical decisions from across the ensemble.

I've heard many professional bands and orchestras that play well together, but it seems like they either have a homogenous sound, where they blend their tones together to make a singular 'orchestra' sound, or that they play as a collection of tambral soloists with each instrument/instrument group coming out as individual parts of the whole. There is nothing wrong with either of these qualities, and there are groups that will switch between the two styles within one performance. But the Vienna Philharmonic can do both at one. At the same time, they can be playing with a homogenous sound and have soloistic voices weaving in and out of the woodworks. It's amazing, and I have no idea how they do it. As a future music educator, I can only hope that I figure out what it is that makes this sound possible within an ensemble, and that I can even come close to getting my students to make these sort of musical interpretations and decisions together.

Schönbrunn Palace

For our last planned evening in Vienna, we toured the Schönbrunn Palace as well as attended a dinner and and concert within the palace complex. The palace grounds were owned by the Hapsburgs starting in the late 16th century and the palace itself (as it's seen today) was constructed mid-18th century. Maria Theresa oversaw construction after receiving the grounds as a wedding present from her father. The impressively large palace has over 1440 rooms and the ones on the tour were furnished as they would have been during Maria Theresa's reign. Not only was it incredible to see such extravagant rooms, but our tour itself was particularly special. We arrived at the palace after closing and were shown in to meet our guide. The palace was empty, from what I could tell, so we had a private after-hours tour with no rush and no other tourists around which to maneuver. One thing I enjoyed searching for in each room was hidden doors. In the royal palace (along with many other historic homes), there were separate passageways for the servants to use. Doors from the passageways were typically designed to blend in with the decor, so they can take a bit to spot. I would love to get a behind-the-scenes look at the old palaces to get a feel for how they were actually run. On the tours you get to see the polished elegance of royal life, but I wish I could go into the servants' quarters to understand the work it took to keep up the extravagant lifestyle.

Reflection

Coming back home to the states is so surreal. Normal things like sleeping in, driving/riding in cars, and not doing 100 things in one day feels strange. I'm just now noticing all the bruises on my knees from lugging around my suitcase for a month- that's how busy we were. But I wouldn't change it for the world. 

I had an amazing experience in Europe. I've been to France before, however I had spoken the language and learned about the culture in school. But throwing myself into a culture in which I did not speak the language or understand was a completely new experience. 

It was an amazing trip. I never thought I would be able to see so many wonderful, world renowned orchestras in my entire life. I also never thought that I could appreciate music even more- I was wrong! 

This trip helped me to learn a lot about myself and the kind of goals I want for my life. It made me realize just how much more I want to travel, and how much more I want to spend my time in graduate school far, far away from home, preferably in another country all together. It was a life changing experience that I will never forget. 

The Finale

My last day in Vienna was a great one. With my free day in the city I wandered around one of the main squares, looking at all the fun things I hadn't gotten a chance to see on the tour we took. There were more amazing statues, restaurants, and a great cafe called Aida where I ordered and amazing chocolate nougat and pistachio marzipan cake.

The final swing dance of my trip took place at the Hostel we were staying at and all of the dancers that I had made friends with over the last week all came and danced with me. It was an amazing experience to get to form connections with people who had the same passion that I did and I hope to see all of them again.

As a musician this trip has shown me just how much I have to grow as an artist and what it can be like to reach the peak of professionalism. Getting to listen to some of the best orchestras in the world in person really put what it means to be a professional into perspective and I'm excited to continue my journey to improve even more in my playing as my life continues.

Thank you Dr. Powell and PLU for making this trip possible.

Beverages and the Dining Experience

So as my previous post talks about, I had the opportunity to eat a lot of wonderful food on this trip. I also ordered a beverage for most of my meals. I have to say that the beverages on this trip were of excellent quality. Never have I been able to sit down at any restaurant in the states, order simply a "dark beverage," and have it consistently be delicious and smooth as what I experience throughout my travels. This will probably be what I miss most about the dining experiences in Germany, Austria and the Czech Republic. If I had to choose, my favorite beverages were in the Czech Republic (U Fleku) and also those of a Bavarian variety. Good stuff!

There were definite differences in the way that you were served in central european restaurants and cafes. You often sat yourself, and the waiters would bring you a menu. Shortly afterwards they would ask what you want to drink (see above, "A dark beverage, please!") and then would leave again for several minutes while you figured out your food order. Once your food was given to you, it was rare to see the waiter again until much later. Often we would finish our food and wait for up to twenty minutes before seeing the waiter again for a check. It was odd at first having the server be so aloof, but after a while I started to really like that we weren't being interrupted every five minutes with questions of if we are doing okay. I also liked that because they did not immediately give us our check, it felt like we were never rushed out, and that it was totally fine to stay and talk in the cafe for as long as we pleased. The whole thing invited a longer dining experience that was more social, and I liked it that way. However, sometimes we actually were in a rush, and it was not fun to walk around the restaurant trying to find your server to ask for the bill.

The picture below is of the souvenir I collected from each restaurant/beverage lounge that offered them. Not all restaurants offered coasters, but these represent a month's worth of excellent food and drink, and I will fondly remember them. And yes, they are in chronological order according to when I visited the restaurant/beverage lounge.

 

Food!

Okay, so I know that I am now posting on this blog after the trip is over...but I was too busy exploring and having fun in Europe to do 'homework.' Oh well :)
So this post is about food. Simply put, it will be sorely missed. I did not have a single bad meal. In fact, I enjoyed some of the best food I've eaten in a long time (besides my family's seafood). I did end up eating a bit more potatoes than I would have liked (even though they were all cooked very well), but it was worth it for the rotkraut, the sausages, the goulash, and the schnitzel. My favorite restaurant was U Fleku, in Prague. Everything was so good, and I ate a lot of everything. The bacon-bread dumplings were to die for, and they made an awesome roasted duck. I also appreciate that the food in these countries was not as processed, and not as sweetened. It made bigger meals feel less like a giant rock in your stomach, and more like a lot of great food.
Oh yeah, and I got to eat some Mozart cake in Salzburg on his 260th birthday. Austrian style cake with a marzipan frosting -- that was some good cake.

One of many Schnitzels. This one with a mushroom cream sauce. YUM

Mozart cake!

Sign outside my favorite bar/restaurant in Leipzig. This place wins my award for best goulash.

Hooray Brass!

After a long time of waiting, I finally got to see a concert with a brass section feature. Thank you Tonkünstler Orchestra, for playing Bruckner 4! It was awesome.
What I have realized is that there are small but important differences in the German and Austrian brass sounds vs. the "American" brass sound. One of the most visible and audible differences is the choice in instruments. Austria and Germany both employ rotary trumpets instead of pistons, and Vienna also uses the 'Vienna horns'. These changes offer a different core sound, and I love it. The rotary trumpets have a darker and warmer tone that lies somewhere in between the piston trumpet and the cornet. It makes me think that if I ever was in charge of an orchestra or band, that I would love to have the sounds of these instruments rather than a traditional versions found in most American ensembles.
P.S. The Weiner Musikverein is absolutely incredible.