Thursday, January 21, 2016

Leipzig

After a myriad of technical difficulties, I am finally able to post the entries I have been writing throughout the trip. My pictures are still not transferring to the blog, but hopefully I can add those in later. Better late than never, right...?

Leaving Leipzig was a sad thing to do, but knowing it was only the first stop of our month-long adventure helped me be ready to move to the next city.
After a 30-hour travel day leaving from Tacoma, I was over-exahusted and ready to crash as soon as we got to our hostel. One more train ride was between me and my bed and I tried my best not to look horribly grumpy as I sat next to a German commuter. Now a short walk. Then I could sleep. As I climbed the stairs out of the underground station, the cool evening air was refreshing and I could sense the calm of the historic city. Our stop let out right in the middle of Market Square and the view made me stop right there, snap out of my grumpy state, and realize--I was in Germany. 

Day 1
Jet lag is brutal. Fortunately, our hostel had an impressive spread for breakfast which made the mornings easier. My favorite ended up being bree and salami on a fresh-baked roll--with plenty of coffee to scare away the 9 hour time change. After breakfast, we took a walking tour of the area around the hostel and gained insights as well as our berings in the historic district. I enjoyed seeing the old buildings, some dating back to Martin Luther's time, side by side with modern constructions. It was a perfect depiction of living history.
During our afternoon free time, Alan and I ventured into Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum; this coffee shop opened in 1711 and has been in business since! This cafe has been a social hotspot, a gathering place for Free Masons, and inspired composers such as Bach, Schumann, and Wagner. Specifically, Bach's Coffee Cantata was written here. Now, the building houses a restaurant, cafe, and a museum.

Day 2
Walking out of the hostel on the second day, we were greeted with a bustling outdoor market spanning the square. There were vendors selling meat, cheese, bread, flowers, and fresh produce. Special blends of tea and spices were available along with chocolates and candies. I was surprised by all the fruits and flowers available (which all looked wonderful) since it is January and so far from those items being in season. After a walk through the market, a group of us ventured to Leipzig's art museum. We spent the better part of the day at the museum, leaving just enough time to grab some food before our evening concert. Tonight we saw the Gerwandhaus Brass Quintet. Having previously played some of the pieces they performed tonight, I was especially impressed with their ability and musicality. I'm pretty sure I had a dopey grin on my face the whole time. Oh well. At least they could tell I enjoyed their concert!

Day 3
The churches! Throughout Leipzig, there are impressively ornate churches, two of which we toured today. The first we visited was St. Nicholas Church which was built in around 1165. One of Leipzig's most famous residents, J.S. Bach, premiered his St. John  Passion here in 1724. Bach regularly performed other works at St. Nicholas as well.
Also built in the 12th century was St. Thomas Church. Bach was employed here for 27 years leading up to his death in 1750. As I was walking through the church, someone was having a lesson on the organ. It was surreal to hear the organ echo through the same sanctuary in which Bach played and in which he now rests.
Unrelated to Bach, but equally powerful was a story we learned about a visit by Martin Luther. In 1539, Luther visited Leipzig to introduce the city to the Reformation. He gave a sermon at St. Thomas which was so well attended that the church was completely full and people were congregating outside the building as well. To hear Luther, those outside smashed in the sanctuary's large windows. While it's unfortunate the church was damaged, it's eye opening to understand how desperately the public wanted to hear Luther's word.
Today we also visited the Bach museum, saw a rendition of the Three Penny Opera, and found a delicious traditional German restaurant and bar.

Day 4
It's our final day in Leipzig. We were able to visit the Mendelssohn House, Schumann House, overlook Leipzig from its tallest building, and hear the Gewandhaus Orchestra.

1 comment:

  1. How mind-blowing to be walking the same streets and entering the same buildings as Bach and Luther! It must make them seem all the more real and relevant when you next encounter their works.

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