Lost in Prague

 Prague. My impression: I don't think I have ever seen a city so magnificent, nor have I ever felt so much like a tourist. This city has torn me. The architecture and language are astonishingly beautiful. We went to the castle, where the president actually lives, and I could not help but to drop my jaw and stare. It was phenomenal. Yet among this immense beauty is a Disneyland of tourist shops. Colorful T shirts and mugs around every corner with different fonts spelling Prague. And the scarves. So many beautiful scarves (my favorite part). That is the best conclusion I can make of the little corner of Prague I have explored these last few days: incredibly beautiful, but almost in-your-face touristy.

Photo: view of the St. Charles Bridge by night. 

Photo: gates to the castle.

Photo: castle cathedral. 

The city looked even more beautiful from boat: 

One of the most powerful things I've been able to experience this trip was visiting the Jewish quarter of Prague today. The Czech Republic was under Nazi control during the Second World War, and anti-semitism was widespread around Europe, so nearly 180,000 Jewish people lived or were held here before being transported to extermination or work camps or other ghettos. What remains is a powerful monument of Jewish culture and history and the oppression these people faced. The most striking aspects were the cemetery and Pinkas Synagogue. The grave stones were so tightly packed they were practically on top of one another, slanted and worn. The cemetery was quite expansive and in the center, to be seen from many synagogues and buildings around. A constant reminder of the many victims to cruel war and oppression. 

Photo: Cemetary in Jewish quarter. 

The quarter also holds another monument to the Jews who lost their lives in the holocaust. In Pinkas Synagogue I found the most overwhelming and beautiful memorial. The synagogue has names, floor to ceiling of those who died. Thousands upon thousands of names stretch the walls. It's difficult to know if to bow down and pray for them all, or walk wall to wall trying to see everything. From afar, the names appear like a black and red piece of art, but up close they are tiny intricate reminders of the last monument to these people. All these people. Every name, a person. It was overwhelming, but a beautiful sentiment and the very minimal these people deserve. Megan and I both decided to take one name with us to remember, as another man inside told us, "because if everyone who passes through does so perhaps they all can be remembered." One last note on this heavy topic, a quote that stuck with me, from an 11-year old held at Auschwitz. She wrote a poem that said (paraphrased): I am a Jew. For this I will always face oppression, but also for this I will always overcome with new life.' I was astonished by the faith and wisdom of someone so young who faced such horrors. The best I can make of such an impactful visit is to remember her words and the past, but also to find something to have that level of faith in, so that I can be as strong as she was in hardship. I will pray and remember you all, and strive to never take for granted to opportunities and good life I have been given. 

Photo: gate to the Jewish quarter. 

On another note, because the beauty of this adventure is the wide-variety of experiences. The performances in Prague: last night was the opera Rusalka and tonight the Czech Philharmonic. To begin with, Rusalka was an interesting production. The music (Dvorjak) was outstanding. However, I felt like the directing and some interpretational choices feel short and balance between singers and orchestra was faulty at times. It was an interesting story, basically the non-Disney little mermaid, but a moving screen set in the background often distracted from the actual production. Nonetheless, it was interesting to see and compare to the other operas. And the hall was absolutely incredible. I wish I had gotten there earlier to just wander around and look at the intricately painted celing and box designs. 

And then the Czech Phil tonight. The highlight for me was Bruch's violin Concerto performed by Janine Jansen who has to be one of the most expressive and musical soloists I have ever had the pleasure of seeing. Her ability to nearly shred the strings of the Stradivarius violin she performed on, to emerging from niente with complete ease and elegance was incredible. Also she almost danced on stage, her movement and sound was unparalleled to anything I have ever seen. Bravo, bravo. I was in awe. The orchestra was wonderful as well, and I mean them no discredit, but for me Janine stole the show. 

Photo: outside the Dvorjak concert hall! (No pictures allowed inside, sorry).

So goodnight for now, we have one more day in beautiful Prague and then it is off to Austria! 

Bis Dann, 

-Lyndi