Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Serenaded by Papageno

Anyone else think Papageno looks like Moriarty from Sherlock?
(Photo credit: Claire Rehmke, because I'm still going through my thousands of photos from Prague...)


I will definitely remember our second night in Salzburg as one of my favorite moments of the trip. I mean, its not everyday a girl gets serenaded, least of all by a guy covered in rainbow feathers. 

We attended the second of our group dinners that evening. The dinner was made to feel like we were actually stepping into a salon during Mozart's time. In fact, we were told that Mozart may have once performed in that exact room. The small ballroom itself was incredibly ornate, with intricate chandeliers and huge silver candelabras lining the room. I've said this a lot throughout the course of the trip but it really felt like we had stepped back in time. The food, which was served in three courses, was also wonderful. Each course, from the potato soup to the berry and honey parfait was delicious. However, nothing could match the entertainment for the night.

We knew that we were going to be treated to some selections from some of Mozart's most famous operas, Don Giovanni, The Marriage of Figaro, and The Magic Flute (which we are going to be seeing in Vienna in about a week!) However, I don't think any of us were expecting the musicians to waltz in wearing period clothing. Just as we were all starting to get comfortable with the sound of the string quartet, the doors burst open and two opera singers ran in. They were both phenomenal singers however, the male performer really made the performance. He was hilarious and really interactive with the audience. He really understood the playful nature that is often present in Mozart's music and had us all howling with laughter. It was especially fun to watch him interact with some of the young children sitting a few tables a way for us. It was heartening to see someone making opera, which is often an unattainable art form for kids, really fun. 

When the male singer entered for the second performance that night, Marriage of Figaro, I made an effort to catch his eye in the hopes that he would come interact with our group a little bit. Boy was I right. He sang to our table a little bit, but when he came back to do the Magic Flute (in a hilarious Papageno costume) he ended up singing to me. I guess I was looking a little unamused, however, because after his song he said, "No reaction?", which, of course, had the rest of the table howling in laughter and me bright red. He must have forgiven me, though, because he ran back for a hug at the very end of the performance. All in all, the Mozart dinner was fun and this one singer definitely made my day. 

Walking through Salzburg has been a very interesting experience in general. The only thing I can compare it to is some sort of Mozart version of Graceland. We have visited towns throughout this trip that have commemorated the famous composers who once resided there but none of them hold a candle to the reverence Salzburg has for Mozart. Even though it is hundreds of years after his death, Mozart has definitely achieved rockstar status in his hometown. His face (or, rather, an idealized version of his face) is absolutely everywhere. Some of the strangest things I have seen it stamped on are a mousepad and little bottles of liqueur (which, from what I know about Mozart, I think he would appreciate). 

What is especially hilarious about this situation is that Mozart hated Salzburg and was not quiet about his disdain. He much preferred to travel to larger cities and found Salzburg to be provincial. You really can't blame him, however, since at the time Mozart was alive, Salzburg had no opera houses or public concert halls. It's really too bad that Mozart died so young because, simply by being born in a town he hated, he changed it into something I think he really would have liked. There are many different concert halls now and music is everywhere. In fact, right now Salzburg is celebrating Mozart week with a large series of concerts and I am told the festival they hold over the summer is even more expansive. I think that it is really beautiful how, even after his death, Mozart is still having a lasting effect on Salzburg by turning it into a town full of musical opportunity that I like to believe he would have approved of. 

Keep an eye out for a little "Sound of Music" video a few of us made high in the hills of Salzburg! It will be up as soon as I find a coffee shop that has better wifi than our hostel...

So long, Farewell, Auf Wiedersehen, Goodnight,
Megan Cummings

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