Leipzig Old Town Hall from the 16th Century |
Today was our first full day in Leipzig, Germany and for
many of us in Europe generally. Although I have been to Europe before, I am
always taken aback by the beautiful buildings from multiple eras surrounded by
narrow cobbled streets. There is nothing else quite like it. After our long
travel day(s), we had a nice slow morning to enjoy a European breakfast of
strong coffee, bread, cheese and cold cut meats before our walking tour of the
city. Leipzig is not a particularly big city, but it is full of history and
there is no shortage of things to see and do. A few things that our guide
discussed during the tour which particularly stood out to me were the living
conditions in Eastern Germany under the German Democratic Republic (GDR) and
the history of the Peaceful Revolution in 1989. I had leaned about the division
of Germany during the Cold War, but before today I did not realize the
significance of Leipzig to the reunification of Germany. On October 9th
1989, 70,000 demonstrators gathered outside of St. Nicholas Church and
peacefully marched around the city of Leipzig, demanding democratic
representation and a united Germany, shouting “We are the people” and “No violence.” One month later the Berlin Wall fell, beginning German
reunification. Music was also used as a form of protest against the GDR. I read
on an information plaque near the city center that I was standing where the
first Leipzig street music festival took place in the same year as the Peaceful
Revolution, before it was violently stopped by the police and many of the
musicians arrested.
To commemorate the Peaceful Revolution today there is a
monument outside of the the St. Nicholas Church and every 9th of October Leipzig
celebrates the Festival of Lights where participants light candles and walk the
original demonstration route. Due to its historical significance, Germans use
this same place for other political demonstrations. Being a Monday, like when
the original protests took place, today there will be an evening marching
demonstration by Legida to protest the influx of immigrants and Syrian refugees
into Germany. Though this may be my outside opinion, I find it tragically
ironic that this space which was used to represent unity and the power of the
people is now used to exclude others from German society.
University of Leipzig |
That being said, generally Leipzig appears welcoming to
foreigners. Besides tourists, there are also a number of foreign students who attend
the University of Leipzig. The university was another highlight of the tour for
me. Where the university is now there used to be a monastery which was converted into a church after
the Reformation. In 1968 the church was destroyed by the GDR and Karl Marx University
was constructed in its place. After German reunification the
university was renamed Leipzig University and redesigned by Dutch
architect Erick van Egeraat. Inspired by the location’s history, Egeraat
attempted to represent the moment of the church’s destruction, with the jagged
lines on the surface of the building like the shards of glass, grey panels
as the ash, and off-centered gothic-looking stained glass windows
representing the church coming apart. It is an impressive modern building across
from the Gewandhaus and Opera House in which we will see three performances
later this week. Good coffee, remarkable architecture, and a political protest,
not bad for our first day in Leipzig.
No comments:
Post a Comment